E. F. F#. Intro- C C Em7 Em7 C Em7 Verse- You'll never know, I'll never tell C Em7 I've learned to hide my feelings well F Em7 But my heart beats fast when it hears your name C Em7 And you'll always be my secret flame C Em7 Verse2:You've got someone who holds your heart C Em7 To say anything would not be smart F Em7 But my love for you will

Register now to get rid of these ads! I get a lot of questions about the brackets I use on my cars. ie,---Do you use a plasma cutter, do you cut them out with a jigsaw,etcetera. The real truth is, I cut them out with my old oxy acetylene torch, and sometimes they look like they were chewed out by an alligator!!! But I have a secret weapon---a stationary vertical belt sander. This thing takes a 36 grit sanding belt, x 4" wide x 48" long, and in about 5 minutes I can turn my rough looking torch cut plates into things of beauty. The one I built uses 4" diameter x 4 1/4" long solid steel rollers that I made on a lathe. The shaft on the bottom roller is 3/4" diameter and passes thru 2 square flanged bearings which are bolted to a peice of 3/4" thick plate. (the bottom shaft is fixed solid to the bottom roller) The peice of 3/4" plate is arranged so that it slides in a welded housing, to tighten the belt. The bottom shaft passes thru the bearings and has a 5" diameter double V-belt pulley on it. The motor is mounted to main support post, ( a peice of 3" square tube). The top roller has 3/4" bearings pressed into the ends of the roller. The top shaft is machined from a peice of 1" square stock (turned to 3/4" diameter in the area where the bearings are.) and the top shaft is pivotted at one end, with a simple adjusting bolt set-up at the other end to adjust the angle of the shaft to make the belt track right. The belt has a peice of 3/8" thick plate in behind the front surface to give the belt some "back-up" when I am pushing a plate against it for grinding. The peice of plate which I rest the plate I am grinding on, is supported off the main 3" square vertical I was doing it again, I would make the rollers 6" long, and I would think about direct driving the lower pulley with a coupling off the end of the motor shaft, because a v-belt drive eats up a lot of the available it is now, when I turn that puppy on, all the lights in Barrie go dim for a minute till that 1750 RPM motor gets wound up. Its too much work to do it all up in solid models, but these pictures will give you a pretty good idea of how I built funny looking thing stuck out to one side of the 3" vertical column generally holds a 1 gallon coffee can full of Attached Files: Nice belt sander! It has been a while since I did much flame cutting, but you can get beautiful edges, with minimal slag that will almost fall off when it sees the slag hammer coming if you keep your tip clean, and practice different distances and angles from the work etc. John Lucky dog! I use the concrete side walk, it's about 40 grit... Nice set up.............................bigger is better!! Great tip for those not in the know. We use a large one at work and they are cat's ass. Great for deburring steel as well, a lot easier than a grinder. Another tip I would give about flame cutting is too use a very small tip in the torch. You get much better control, heating a smaller amount of material as well as removing a much smaller molten puddle(oxygen cut). I like to use a #3, great contol and you would be surprised how nice a cut you can get. looks good and stout every fab shop should have one Super cool! I also have a sidewalk sander myself Thats because I wasn't building it cheap as I could in order to sell 10,000 of them and make my fortune. When you build for yourself, an element of overkill doesn't hurt. When I am old and dead, that thing will still be good for another hundred years. I try and use that approach whenever I build anything for my shop. The shaft for the top roller is pivotted at the far end which allows it to pivot up or down. The end you show in the picture shows the end of the top roller shaft passing thru a slot in the machine structure, which lets it swing up or down in the slot. The plates above and below the slot are welded to the structure and drilled and tapped for 3/8" bolts. The end of these bolts (which both have a lock-nut) simply bear against the top and the bottom of the shaft. To adjust the tracking of the belt on the top pulley, I loosen the top bolt and tighten the bottom bolt, or vice-versa. This swings the shaft and pulley slightly up or slightly down, which will make the sanding belt move to the right or to the left untill I get it centered exactly. (You have to do this while the belt is running). does this answer clear things up? Crystal clear! I thought it was one bolt, not two. Thanks for the quick response. As I said in my original post---if I were doing this again, I would use an in-line coupling and direct drive the bottom roller from the motor output shaft. The belt drive eats up a ton of power. I will have rollers on either side, with the v-belt in the middle, so I can have a 4" wide belt on one side, and a 1" on the other. I don't mind the power consumption. Very nice Brian. I need a bigger belt sander, but the 12" woodwork disc sander and 4" woodwork belt sander are doing ok with aluminum and steel. Although I have to admit I'm on my 2nd 4" belt sander cuz the steel-dust shorted out the motor one bright and sunny day. That was interesting. Anyway, one weird one I've noticed with using a belt sander (medium grit belt) and 8" grinder (medium grit wheel) to clean the end of a cut-off bolt's threads is that the belt sander always does a better job than the grinder does. (I shorten a lot of bolts - mainly stainless - to make an exact length bolt.) Seems I always have to get out the thread file for final cleanup when using the grinder, but when I use the belt sander - almost always nowadays - the nut threads on with no problems. This is great. We need more do-it-yourself tool threads. For the cost of an Asian piece of junk(or less), you can make a tool that will last forever. Thanks a lot, Josh. Just when I was trying to cut down the amount of time I spend on the this comes along. I'll never get anything done... hey Jay, you could try using a "soft" wheel to clean up the threads on the bolts you cut off. where i work we require our stainless parts to have a mirror finish, we deburr using two different type of scotchbrite wheels on a bench grinder. i never look at the names, but one, i believe is SST, is a 1x6 wheel that buffs real nice, removing any burrs or surface impercections, we also deburr with another wheel that is about 8" diameter, that is basically a red scotchbrite pad, at high RPMs it does a bang-up job of removing burrs like when you chop off threads, you just gotta be careful to not let the wheel snatch the bolt from your hands! if you'd like, PM me your addy and i'll send you a sample of each, a token of appreciation if you will for all of the good tech you provide here. A very kind offer and one I cannot resist. Not that I'm a tool junky or anything.... Jay: I have experienced similar problems when shortening bolts or making up lengths of threaded have a cheap bench grinder but it does have one nice featurene of the rests has an angular depression which I assume was put on to sharpen drills(as if it would actually work).I use that to grind a bevel on the end I just cut. I used to thread on a nut before cutting it off,but now thread on a die and when I finish cutting and grinding,run the die back over the you don't even have to install the die acquired a ton of taps and dies from my neighbor's father when he sold his house(and shop)and moved into an assisting living place. I thread a die on as well - as long as the bolt is long enough to fit that is...like my wife says, it can never be too long hahaha Steve Share This Page Register now to get rid of these ads! Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.

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